Round cornerbead gives you a softer line with remodeling. It has it’s own requirements. In a standard drywall application, you overlap succeeding layers of drywall. This acts as a base for your corner bead. It is important that your drywall is not extending beyond the other sheet. Your bead will twist and your corner will look squiggly.
Round bead has a radius, so that your drywall needs to just come to the edge of your framing and not overlap. Remember that the radius is rounding the corner, and will not sit right if you do not do this. You also need to mud the inside of the radius bead to supply support and cover the raw edges of the drywall. This is especially critical for vertical applications so the bead does not dent when something hits it. Enough mud to fill, but not so much that the bead bows. It takes practice. Use regular 24 hour compound.
Below is a shot of one of the valance wings.
This is a detail shot of the valance where it meets the wall. This is actually a 2fer. The radius bead is installed with screws as the framing is steel studs. Also on the right side of the photo is a piece of ‘L’ bead, as we are not going to re-texture the walls on either side of the fireplace wall.
Here is a photo of the valance with the first coat of mud. We also ‘L’ beaded the top of the valance panel so we do not have to repaint or re-texture the ceiling.
Inside Mitered Corners
Mitered Corners are done with the Radius Corner Bead Miter Marker Here you see the inside corner, which joins the two beads. I mentioned that the little jog of the Miter Tool was important to cut. This is why. The outside corner is open as this is the real world and not the Remodeling Channel. A little mud and it is all good.
See? Here is our corner with the last coat of mud applied.
Here is our corner with primer and paint. Clean and Soft.
Round bead gives you some options outside of the square box of most remodeling. Enjoy!
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