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August 2008
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Artroom Expansion 5

It has been hot here. It gets over a 100 real early. So I have been working less. But have been making progress.
Roof Framing
The distance is only 16' across  so I built a custom beam to carry the roof, and to save money on framing materials,  as well as having a beam in place for a future overhead crane. Fusing glass in big pieces gets heavy in a hurry.
The beam is 1/2'' plywood between 2×4's with a 2×4 bottom plate. The plywood extends above the top of the beam and acts as the ridge board for the roof rafters. It will carry the roof, the ceiling and a whole lot more.
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Rafters
Here is a view with the rafters in place. I also managed to get my favorite electrician over to prewire for the kilns, exhaust fan and lights and outlets. The rafters are fastened using strong tie anchors and 1 1/4'' and 3'' deck screws in place of nails.
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Framing Details
Here is a view from the outside showing the framing details. The rafters are 10' the ceiling joists are 8' They are siamesed together and screwed with 3'' screws. The clamps are necessary as the material was dropped shipped so selection was left to others.
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Also on the right side is a 2×12'' in the ceiling to attach the counterweight for the kiln lids.


Ceiling Details

Here is a  view of the ceiling construction details. The hurricane ties are attached to the joist and the beam. the tails sticking up will be folded over and screwed down to the top of the beam. The joists are also toe nailed with screws on the sides and through the bottom.
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East Wall View
Here we are after the framing and after the rain.
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Plywood
Plywood is on the roof and next will be the doorway and the siding.
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Drywall Diva

In remodeling there are many triggers that bring us pleasure, from tools to materials to completion.

This is a photo that brings me pleasure.

She would be great on the other end of my projects.

Tanya is also a Professional Photographer too!

Artroom Expansion 4

Weekends are made for framing. Having the wall stripped, it was time to do some framing. The walls are 2×4''wood  on 16'' centers. Standard framing as the sheathing we wanted to use (Roseburg Duratemp) is unavailable in quantities of less than 66 sheets anywhere in Phoenix. A visit to Tuff Shed, who built the original building, would not sell
any of this material. So a different material was selected. More on
that later.

We assembled the walls on the slab, and after raising one of them called it a day. 100+ degrees, and when you are sweating so much that your hammer with the no slip grip is shooting out of your fist like being in a greased pig contest, it is time.
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Sunday Sunday Sunday!
With the client, and the neighbor next door and the guy who was dog sitting from the house on the other side, we raised the other walls. Here they are doing the concrete anchor ballet.
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I always use concrete anchors, (RedHead sleeve or wedge) when attaching walls to slabs. Part of it is my inner control freak, part of it is finishing. Most  concrete companies include 'J' bolts embedded in the slab during the pour. Invariably this presents problems.

First is the locations. Regardless of how careful they are placed, you usually end up having to change the framing details as one or more of them is directly under your studs. I have had them show up in the middle of doorways which presents a whole different problem.
Second is height and plumb. I have seen them out of plumb, off center, bent, rusted, and with the threads chewed up to the point of needing a die set to rethread them. Having to bore oversized holes or slotting your plates to make the wall fit, is just another irritation you can do without.
Third is finishing. The bolts sticking up make striking, tamping, and finishing a pain in the butt for the concrete guys. In addition, having bumps around the bolts, usually means after drilling the bottom plate, having to chisel around the bottom before installation, just adding more time and aggravation to a simple task.

By installing anchors post pour, you eliminate the problems above, control their locations, and if you are using a sill seal, not having it tear or wad up, while trying to get the wall over the bolts.

Trust me, have them pour and finish it smooth. You may have an extra step, but you will have a much better outcome.
Walls Up
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Here is the addition framed up with the top plate installed, ready for the roof and ceiling.
I will be stick framing them using a modified plywood/stud beam.

Artroom Expansion 3

The art room is moving along. Yesterday I got the windows out, removed the trim, made the cuts for the new roof line,  and the final measurements for the opening for the A/C unit which is moving.
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Gotta have A/C as this is an inside/outside project. Started at 6 this morning. We are having triple digit temps here in Arizona. Tomorrow will start
even earlier as we get sunlight as a perk for the temperature.

 This morning the framing and siding materials got dropped, Chris Haddox the electrician showed up to move the A/C plug, and move an outlet that was going to be in the way.
Chris

I built the frame for the A/C unit last night, and after Chris moved the outlet, I installed it and we slid the A/C unit in. I did a couple of things that you may want to note. The frame extends from the siding to the drywall. The shelf below the unit is not attached to the wall but only to the brackets, I also used a couple of layers of the blue insulation that is used for floating plank floors to isolate the case from direct contact with the walls. . This made a major improvement in the quiet level, as most in wall
units are noisy. Being on the north side under the overhang will
improve its efficiency as it is no longer in direct sunlight I also cut the opening so that my brackets were over studs so that I could fasten the brackets securely. It takes two people to move this unit. Makes you feel bad when stuff falls down
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Inside came out well also. A little trim and paint.
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So here we are at the end of the day, around 12:30 (temp is already way over a hundred)
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The siding is off, with me cursing along, as they really really nailed the paneling down, The new roof line is a lot lower as the walls are only going to be 7' high, as a heat control measure, because there will be two or three electric kilns for melting glass that run about 15 hours per firing.

The opening on the left will be getting a smaller window over the sink in the main room, the a/c hole will be covered up, the opening will change as we are installing a three foot door on that side. The right side is the outlet we moved and turned around. This gets it out of the way for framing the door opening, and will give us power once we have the walls and roof up. Lighting will come from the line that was attached to the flood lights that were there before.

Tomorrow, I hope to get the walls prefabbed, and maybe erected. We will see how it goes.