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September 2008
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Artroom Expansion 16

The first set of custom shelves is ready for a coat of poly.
These are made for a container that the client has a lot of storing various materials.

Made out of my favorite plywood with a rabbeted back, and the unit on the right is built for storage of fusable glass rods.

Meanwhile I am building the sink unit made from an angle shower pan. The left side is a ponywall and backsplash. The right side has a built out wall that will tuck under the window, and contain the plumbing. It's depth is dictated by the counter that will run along the wall to the door.
Sink3 In order to make this work, I added an 1/8'' masonite panel behind where the FRP will be attached, as the shower pan has a lip. This gives me a flat surface for gluing the FRP.

The sink is pretty much ready for paint.
I still need to find trims for the outside corners. FRP is a 1/16'' thick and the vynle trims at the big box stores are made for the 1/8'' masonite panels which are produced in the most mind numbing ugly colors and patterns. Yet another demonstration of big box store weirdness. The only FRP panels have a texture on them making them hard to keep clean, and no trims in stock for them. –sigh–

Even More Bubbles

My own projects take a back seat to clients projects, which is why my media room is still unfinished despite building the new temporary workshop in the back.

Rummaging around in the building salvage yards a few years ago brought me this window which I installed for light in the media room. Double glazed commercial window I picked up for a song. Light with low heat gain as it is a west facing wall.

The view sucks. The neighbors swamp cooler is not my idea of a view. My side eave is not adding a lot either.

I had thought about stained glass here, as I was looking for light over a view. I have enough windows to tell me what the weather is like.

I have decided to bubble it. Having lived with the bubbles in the laundry room, I really like the light I get through these blocks. It is one of those happy things that happen that I will be able to get an even number of blocks in the opening.
Mediawindow2This block only comes in one size. 8×8''. I wish they came in a 6×6 size as I have a window in my bathroom that would look great with these.

Bubbles Bubbles Bubbles.


Right now I just have them stacked in the opening while I do other things. I am thinking about various framing options.  Bubbles Bubbles Bubbles.

More Bubbles

The laundry room was a dark place. Now with Bubbles!
Here is a better detail of the bubbles.
This afternoon will be quite a light show…

Bubbles, Bubbles, Bubbles

I need light, am not buying anymore windows, and will not install skylights. So I am gonna  shove bubbles in my walls.

Glass block is an intriguing material. I have wanted to play with them, and have been circling around them for some time. I finally found a pattern that I liked. This is a pattern called Seascape, made by Pittsburgh Block. This photo is poor but you get the idea.

I built a series of frames for the blocks. The frames are 3/4'' plywood just big enough to fit around the blocks. They are deep enough to go through the wall completely. This is the inside of the frame. I have glued these in here with GE Silicone II XST which is supposed to be a paintable silicone caulk. Says on the tube that it will do everything but have your children. We will see.
The outside has a face frame of plywood, whose inside dimension is just a little smaller to act as a lip for the block and provide a surface to caulk to. Since this is an almost pure silicone, I am letting it dry before I trim it.
I am also experimenting with Elmers ProBond Wood Filler. I won't use it again. You can see where it has shrunk back. after sanding. I didn't have any ZAR handy.

Tommorow I will punch some holes in my walls and mount these.

Artroom Expansion 15

While the floor is drying and getting a clear coat, I am in the new temporary workshop building things.

Part of the art room  expansion is to provide a sink for cleaning the glass after it is fused.
We are using a shower pan as the sink. It has the virtue of being big and flat without being deep.

Because this is a custom piece, we can put the top of the sink and counters at 30'', which is the preferred height for the client.

The back splash is 7'' thick to accommodate the plumbing and to bring the side out far enough to join a 24'' deep counter to it.Still to go are is the side splash, masonite and frp for the splash areas.

Drywall Fun – Racetrack Ceiling

A Racetrack Ceiling is a ceiling with a band(s) of drywall applied to your ceiling and finished with 'L' bead. This is my living room with a single racetrack. It adds depth and interest for a small investment of time, over a more elaborate Coffered Ceiling.

For this project you will need a ceiling, some 1/2'' or 5/8'' drywall, enough 1/2'' or 5/8'' 'L' bead to enclose the inside edge, Powergrab adhesive, drywall tape and mud and a few coarse thread screws to hold the drywall in place while the Powergrab dries.

This is where I built a soffit for extending the HVAC for the media room. We are going to apply 6'' wide strips of drywall to the perimeter of the ceiling for our racetrack.
You want to cut these as straight as possible. Saves work later.

Here is the ceiling with the strips applied. They are held in place with Powergrab, and a couple of coarse sheetrock screws to hold them in place. Don't worry about hitting wood, you will be pulling them out soon.

I specify Powergrab because it just flat out works. If you want to hold it for 10 seconds you probably don't even need the screws. Liquid Nails, and other panel adhesives do not work this well.


Next, we tape out the inside corners around the perimeter of the room. Tape and coat the Wall angle of the corner before attaching the 'L' bead.
Then we attach our 'L' bead to the inside edge of the drywall with thin coat of powergrab and a few screws to hold it, while it sets up.

Fill coat the bead strips, mud the wall side of the corners, let dry, sand and repeat.

After sanding and before priming, run a very thin bead of caulk on the top edge of the 'L' bead to hide any holes that may peek out.

Prime and paint.

Depending on the size of your room, ceiling height, and amount of work you want to do you can apply a 9'', 6'', and 3'' racetracks around your room and 'step' it like a coffered ceiling.

Drywall can be fun!

Artroom Expansion 14

The floor has been painted and is drying. This is Quikrete Epoxy Garage Floor Coating Floor4

Our floor is 249 square feet. The kit covers 250 square feet.  According to the client they aren't kidding. Also this is a water based epoxy product and has low to no odor.

It takes 72 hours before you can use it.

Meanwhile I am building cabinets.

Artroom Expansion 13

This is the crap left to clean up when using red rosin paper.

The floor will be washed and painted over the next couple of days.
The walls are painted with Behr Ultra White Semi Gloss. Shows every little detail.

North Wall
East Wall
South Wall
West Wall
Meanwhile I will be spending the time the floor is drying, building various cabinets and shelving units for this.


Sunrise in arizona

Wet paint


Artroom Expansion 12

The electrician was a no show, as he had other work. This is okay as I got the sanding and we got the primer done.

Always prime sheetrock!!!

First, it will save you money. You really don't want to apply two or more coats of 30+ bucks a gallon paint to cover your wall.

Second, by priming your walls, you have an opportunity to fix any small problems that show up before you paint your finish color.

Third, cause I said so.


The ceiling came out pretty well.

The damage on this wall went away as well.

24 sheets of drywall, 2 bags of speedset, 2 boxes of dust control mud, and this is all the mess there is. Love that dust control mud.
Tomorrow I get to bite the electicians ass…