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Closet Office 2

In our last episode we had done the demo, run the electric, built a deck/ceiling frame, and done some taping.
The taping on the cornerbead is done the texture is matched, and it has been primed.
Upper Storage
I have also installed the plywood floor for the upper storage area.

Note that I taped the ceiling and wall to limit the mess as I finished the face of the closet office. I pre-drilled the plywood and screwed it down. It is a two piece installation as there is a wing on both sides. The plywood in front comes even with our drywall and is covered with a 1×6 MDF trim board.
Here is a longer shot.

I extended the trim to the wall on the right and an equal distance on the left. This allows the homeowner to attach curtains if that is their choice. The work top will not extend beyond the sides of the closet so the ability to install bi-fold doors is also open.

In addition to screwing the MDF to the header in front, I also screwed it to the plywood using a thinner screw known as a trim head to stiffen the deck and the corner.

I used quick clamps to align the trim and deck as I screwed it together.

Closet Office Ceiling
The first thing here is installing the electric box and blocking. This is the box recycled from the ceiling in the storage area project.

The placement of the box was decided by the fixture I am using, which in this case is an switched 18” flat florescent. Because of the mounting holes for this fixture I installed a 2×4 backing strip on the left. Because the back wall is next to the garage I caulked the hole where the romex came through, (despite the fact the wall is insulated, it gets moved and bunched up when you run wires through it) and stapled the romex in place which is just good technique. This will provide general lighting on the work surface. The box allows the client the ability to change the fixture in the future if desired.

In measuring the closet it turns out that it is not square. No surprise here. My first sheet goes from 22 1/2” on the left to 23 1/4” on the right.

Here is a trick for cutting small angles. I took my drywall square and lined it up with my measurement marks and used a couple of quick clamps to hole it down as I cut the sheet.

This works fine for small angles, larger ones require either a chalk line or a straight edge.
After cutting and buffing it, I trial fitted it to see that it would fit without breaking any corners or edges.

The light box is in this sheet so I made my measurements and used a circle cutter to make my outline. I used a keyhole saw to cut it out.

Here is a tip for cutting holes. When cutting close to the edge of a sheet, start your cut at the narrowest point to the edge and cut away from it. The chances of breaking the sheet go way down when done this way.

Taping
I taped the ceiling box with blue tape to avoid crap in it. Having hung the drywall, I masked the wall and mesh taped all of the seams.

Next up is taping.

Flat taping into corners like this is more art than science, as you have to cover the tape and yet not so hard into the corners that you telegraph the wall texture into your mud. It leaves ridges at right angles to the line of your mud. Sand or fill. If needed your second coat can run from the wall edge to the feather edge to fill in those ridges. Depending on how picky you are. As you can see taping the ceiling box closed was a good idea.
After sanding, I removed the masking paper, ran a small bead of caulk into the corners and primered.

Leave the tape on the box until your painting is done and you are installing your light.

Next up will be shelving and decking.

Closet Office 1

This is a typical closet in a ‘modern’ home. Around 2 feet deep, 7 feet wide and on the inside 8 feet tall.

This design is cheap and fast to build and keeps the bi fold and slide-by door industries alive. It is also the whipping boy and training center for young drywall hangers and tapers. Closets are the last things to get hung and taped so they are usually not the best finished inside.

We will turn this into a home office. We will need to install electricity, cabling for network, telephone, space for the cable modem, router, hub, a desk surface, shelving and storage. We are not changing the basic exterior dimensions as the window on the right side limits depth expansion. But I will grab every bit of space I can.
The area above the header on the inside is awkward as a closet as anybody who has been smacked on the head is probably nodding.

We are going to create storage here. First up after removing the rod and shelf,(leaving the cleats as we will be reusing the shelf) we run a band of 2×4 around the interior of the closet above the door opening.

This will serve as the ceiling for the office as well as the deck for the storage above. I placed these above the opening in front to flat tape the ceiling and not need to skim coat the walls.
After completing the deck/ceiling I opened up the front of the closet from the top of the header to the bottom of the top plates. There were no cripples above the header, which is just a 2×4 flat with a 2×4 nailed to it in front for nailing and hopefully to keep the opening level.

I also pulled a power leg from the outlet I have already run to power the overhead light.

After cleaning up the opening I corner beaded it on both sides and mudded it.

Tip: In spaces like this, finish the mudding before installing the floor and ceiling. You may also to paint it also.

Next up, rough in and taping.