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Artroom Expansion 11

The electrician is on my ass! He wants to show up tomorrow morning to install the plugs and plates, because he is going on vacation. I tried vacation once. Screwed me up something fierce.

Because he is so damn good, I am taping like a cat with bacon tied to its tail. Taping is done, and tomorrow I am sanding and priming spots he needs. Like the ceiling where we are installing florescent fixtures on the ceiling.

The color variation is not your eyes or my camera. The white areas are speedset, the yellow/beige areas are USG Dust Control mud. On the left is the sub panel for the electric for this room, with circuits for the kilns, interior and exterior plugs and lights.

The wall seams are not centered as this room is only 7' high.
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This is the east wall where the kilns will live. On the left, the square hole is for the exhaust fan. the outlet box below it is for the thermostat, that will fire it up when the kilns are running.
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This is the south wall with the small window acting as the fresh air intake for the fan.
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This is the west wall where the sink will be mounted. We are using an angled shower pan as the sink. Some counter and shelving will complete this wall.
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Hopefully, I will have this painted by Sunday afternoon. Then the client will paint the floor with a two step garage paint. As I have gotten older, I have developed an extreme sensitivity to solvents,(like blinding headache, puking, wobbling around) so it is one of the remodeling tasks I no longer do.
While it is drying, like three days, I will be building cabinets and parts for the artroom as well as the sinkand counter bases.

Artroom Expansion 10 The Red Rosin Paper Caper

Taping and sanding drywall is one of the messiest parts of remodeling. The Artroom Expansion Project is at that stage. We have already decided that the floor will be getting an epoxy floor coating. To make it look good, we need a flat, smooth, finish. It is one of the reasons we had the lads from Chayse Concrete do the slab. Manny has a zen thing going with a finish trowel.

Hanging the drywall creates its own mess. Between cutting, trimming, buffing, and sliding it around, crap builds up on the floor.
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To make the epoxy application go smoothly, and not wanting to be chipping, scraping, and mopping, we are protecting the floor with Red Rosin Paper,(aka Builders Paper). RRP is about twice as thick as brown paper bag paper. It is tough stuff, and provides a much better walking surface than using plastic sheeting which will tear by thinking hard.

The first thing to do is to sweep/vac the floor.
Second, we wipe the perimeter of the room with water and a sponge.
Third we put down a line of tape as close to the wall as possible. In my case it is blue tape.
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Next we roll out the Red Rosin Paper and apply tape to the paper and the tape line we have already established. We do this to the entire perimeter of the room. We are only taping the wall side down.
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After we have our wall sheet down, we fill in the rest of the room by covering the edges and taping them down.
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You now have floor cover that will collect the mudsharks, drops, dust and other crap including the primer and paint. Light sweeping between coats will keep the clutter down. You need reasonable care when walking around, and this should last from tape to paint.

P.S. This works well on your living spaces too.

Artroom Expansion 9

While you were celebrating Labor Day, I was hanging drywall.
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Next Up, taping and beading.

Artroom Expansion 8

The electric rough-in is done. The plumbing is done and the insulation is up. This is one of the two windows we recycled from the old wall. It has been blue taped as we will be wrapping it with drywall and using 'L' bead on the window side, and cornerbead on the wall side. Before we start hanging we will plastic over it. Digging taping mud out of sliding window channels is one of those experiences you can go your whole life without missing.

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On the east wall is the commercial exhaust fan which will have a thermostat mounted below it to keep this room semi-cool. There will be two electric kilns in here running 15 hours at a time. This is the other window we recycled.  
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The south wall has a small slider that will act as the intake vent for the fan.
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Tomorrow my son and I will hang the sheet rock while the rest of you kick back for Labor Day.

Artroom Expansion 7

Major Sheathing Operations are Complete!
The roofing is done thanks to the lads from Collum Roofing. In addition to roofing the expansion, we had them tear off and re-roof the original building. Despite the fact that shingles have spiked in price,(lots of oil goes into roofing shingles) They tore it off, carted it off, laid new 30# paper, new drip edge, and roofed it in 2 1/2 days. An outstanding job.

Meanwhile, I finished the sheathing, the cutouts for the exterior outlets and lights, roof vents, and the exhaust fan for removing the excess heat buildup from running the kilns. The caulking is almost complete. This room will be airtight.
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The electrician finished his rough in, so we have 2 50 amp circuits for the kilns, GFCI's for the exterior outlets and separate circuits for lighting and outlets.
Artroom30 Next up is the pumbing rough in for the cleaning sink, insulation and drywall.

The interior party wall is almost taped off.
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Hopefully I can get this hung by this weekend.

Artroom Expansion 6

Currently in Arizona it is the monsoon season, which gives us rain in frog strangling downpours, from what anywhere else appear to be clear skies. It happens about that fast.

The Artroom's roof is 10 years old, and is a miracle in staying power, as the shingles are really dry and brittle. So we are having roofers stop by to bid on replacing the shingles on the old roof and roofing the Expansion. This is a challenge as the storm last week has a lot of them repairing damage around the Valley.

Meanwhile, we have sheathed the roof, and installed the fascia, which we used a rough sawn siding plank ripped to size to match the existing fascia on the artroom. That being done, the roof is ready for roofing.

To avoid doing twice the work, we bagged the roof deck. Ran plastic sheeting across the whole thing.
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Trust me, there is nothing less pleasant than your new roof decking
going from flat to something resembling dunes in the desert. It makes roofing a more of challenge than normal.

Because the expansion's doorway is through the existing wall, this area must be framed up before we can apply the exterior siding. We are framing in a smaller window over the wash sink in the artroom, covering the old A/C hole and reframing the wall for the new door.
Here is that process from the expansion side.
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The drywall wraps from the artroom had to be removed to place the window, blocking installed for the drywall to attach.

 Tech Tip: When removing drywall wraps in window openings, work from the new side using a prybar to loosen the drywall and cornerbead. This allows you to remove the corner bead and drywall from the 'backside' leaving a relatively clean line for the repair of the existing drywall.

Framing for the doorway had its own challenges, as the counters and sink in the artroom are in place. Not to mention the 2 tons of stained glass in racks below them. So we started with the outside framing, measuring and cutting back the studs and header to accept the new door frame, keeping the repair to a minimum.

Here is the other side.

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Next up is installing the door, and getting a tape coat on the patched areas.

Artroom Expansion 5

It has been hot here. It gets over a 100 real early. So I have been working less. But have been making progress.
Roof Framing
The distance is only 16' across  so I built a custom beam to carry the roof, and to save money on framing materials,  as well as having a beam in place for a future overhead crane. Fusing glass in big pieces gets heavy in a hurry.
The beam is 1/2'' plywood between 2×4's with a 2×4 bottom plate. The plywood extends above the top of the beam and acts as the ridge board for the roof rafters. It will carry the roof, the ceiling and a whole lot more.
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Rafters
Here is a view with the rafters in place. I also managed to get my favorite electrician over to prewire for the kilns, exhaust fan and lights and outlets. The rafters are fastened using strong tie anchors and 1 1/4'' and 3'' deck screws in place of nails.
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Framing Details
Here is a view from the outside showing the framing details. The rafters are 10' the ceiling joists are 8' They are siamesed together and screwed with 3'' screws. The clamps are necessary as the material was dropped shipped so selection was left to others.
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Also on the right side is a 2×12'' in the ceiling to attach the counterweight for the kiln lids.


Ceiling Details

Here is a  view of the ceiling construction details. The hurricane ties are attached to the joist and the beam. the tails sticking up will be folded over and screwed down to the top of the beam. The joists are also toe nailed with screws on the sides and through the bottom.
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East Wall View
Here we are after the framing and after the rain.
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Plywood
Plywood is on the roof and next will be the doorway and the siding.
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Artroom Expansion 4

Weekends are made for framing. Having the wall stripped, it was time to do some framing. The walls are 2×4''wood  on 16'' centers. Standard framing as the sheathing we wanted to use (Roseburg Duratemp) is unavailable in quantities of less than 66 sheets anywhere in Phoenix. A visit to Tuff Shed, who built the original building, would not sell
any of this material. So a different material was selected. More on
that later.

We assembled the walls on the slab, and after raising one of them called it a day. 100+ degrees, and when you are sweating so much that your hammer with the no slip grip is shooting out of your fist like being in a greased pig contest, it is time.
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Sunday Sunday Sunday!
With the client, and the neighbor next door and the guy who was dog sitting from the house on the other side, we raised the other walls. Here they are doing the concrete anchor ballet.
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I always use concrete anchors, (RedHead sleeve or wedge) when attaching walls to slabs. Part of it is my inner control freak, part of it is finishing. Most  concrete companies include 'J' bolts embedded in the slab during the pour. Invariably this presents problems.

First is the locations. Regardless of how careful they are placed, you usually end up having to change the framing details as one or more of them is directly under your studs. I have had them show up in the middle of doorways which presents a whole different problem.
Second is height and plumb. I have seen them out of plumb, off center, bent, rusted, and with the threads chewed up to the point of needing a die set to rethread them. Having to bore oversized holes or slotting your plates to make the wall fit, is just another irritation you can do without.
Third is finishing. The bolts sticking up make striking, tamping, and finishing a pain in the butt for the concrete guys. In addition, having bumps around the bolts, usually means after drilling the bottom plate, having to chisel around the bottom before installation, just adding more time and aggravation to a simple task.

By installing anchors post pour, you eliminate the problems above, control their locations, and if you are using a sill seal, not having it tear or wad up, while trying to get the wall over the bolts.

Trust me, have them pour and finish it smooth. You may have an extra step, but you will have a much better outcome.
Walls Up
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Here is the addition framed up with the top plate installed, ready for the roof and ceiling.
I will be stick framing them using a modified plywood/stud beam.

Artroom Expansion 3

The art room is moving along. Yesterday I got the windows out, removed the trim, made the cuts for the new roof line,  and the final measurements for the opening for the A/C unit which is moving.
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Gotta have A/C as this is an inside/outside project. Started at 6 this morning. We are having triple digit temps here in Arizona. Tomorrow will start
even earlier as we get sunlight as a perk for the temperature.

 This morning the framing and siding materials got dropped, Chris Haddox the electrician showed up to move the A/C plug, and move an outlet that was going to be in the way.
Chris

I built the frame for the A/C unit last night, and after Chris moved the outlet, I installed it and we slid the A/C unit in. I did a couple of things that you may want to note. The frame extends from the siding to the drywall. The shelf below the unit is not attached to the wall but only to the brackets, I also used a couple of layers of the blue insulation that is used for floating plank floors to isolate the case from direct contact with the walls. . This made a major improvement in the quiet level, as most in wall
units are noisy. Being on the north side under the overhang will
improve its efficiency as it is no longer in direct sunlight I also cut the opening so that my brackets were over studs so that I could fasten the brackets securely. It takes two people to move this unit. Makes you feel bad when stuff falls down
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Inside came out well also. A little trim and paint.
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So here we are at the end of the day, around 12:30 (temp is already way over a hundred)
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The siding is off, with me cursing along, as they really really nailed the paneling down, The new roof line is a lot lower as the walls are only going to be 7' high, as a heat control measure, because there will be two or three electric kilns for melting glass that run about 15 hours per firing.

The opening on the left will be getting a smaller window over the sink in the main room, the a/c hole will be covered up, the opening will change as we are installing a three foot door on that side. The right side is the outlet we moved and turned around. This gets it out of the way for framing the door opening, and will give us power once we have the walls and roof up. Lighting will come from the line that was attached to the flood lights that were there before.

Tomorrow, I hope to get the walls prefabbed, and maybe erected. We will see how it goes. 

Artroom Expansion 1

This is the studio of a glass artist. We are expanding it to provide a separate room for the current and additional kilns for melting glass. .

This is the east wall where we will start. We are adding 14' to the length, and maintaining the 16' width.
On the left is the supply line for the current wash sink. The window on the left will remain. The A/C unit will be moved around the corner. The right window will be removed and a 3 foot door will be framed in.  The window will recycled into the center of the new east wall.
Starting Point
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Site Prep
The tree gets removed.
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Opening the wall.
The original building is a Tuff Shed, which is constructed very well. At this point we capped the water supply line and see where the waste line is. This is important information as we are going to provide a wash sink in the kiln room.
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Form Work
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Next up Concrete